Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
